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Yes! We offer FREE SHIPPING within the lower 48 states with no hidden fees.
Shipping time will vary depending on location (typical transit time is 3-7 business days inside the lower 48 states).
Tracking information is provided via email, typically within 24-48 hours of your order being placed online. The tracking information will be located on your final receipt/invoice.
Freight and shipping damage shall be reported to CWS within three (3) calendar days of receipt of goods. It is the purchaser/customer responsibility to note any damage before signing the delivery receipt. If damage has occurred to the outboard, purchaser shall make note of such before signing for delivery. Customer shall not refuse delivery of the outboard based on damage. In the event of shipping or freight damage, customer shall keep and safeguard all factory packaging, including, but not limited to, all external packaging, all internal styrofoam, bubble wrap, and cardboard supports. In the event a product was damaged during shipment and proper and timely notification was given to CWS, CWS will file a damage claim with the carrier. Damage or loss of goods that are outside the control of CWS is not to be considered basis for waiver of the cancellation and refused shipments provision contained herein.
Yes, we ship worldwide.
- A kicker motor generally refers to a model that is used to supplement a larger outboard motor.
- A small motor like this is often intended for trolling or going slow.
- Kicker motors are also commonly used as auxiliary power for sail boats when wind conditions are not favorable or positioning the boat is important.
- A kicker motor is most commonly a 6 hp, 8hp, 9.8hp or 9.9 hp model motor with a 20” shaft or 25” shaft.
Measure from the top of your transom to the bottom of your keel. If it is from 15″ to 17″ long you’ll need to get an outboard with a “short” shaft. If it is from 20″ to 22″ long you’ll need our “long” shaft outboard. Outboard shafts are measured from the bottom of the engine mounting bracket to the cavitation plate on the lower unit. Generally most boats need either a short or long shaft although some boats require a 25″ shaft (ultra-long shaft) outboard.
Please note that depending on the particular model, some shaft lengths may be 2″ longer than “standard” (ie: a short shaft may be 17″ instead of 15″ and a long shaft may be 22″ instead of 20″). Therefore, depending on the configuration of your keel, the shaft length required by your boat may be different than the above recommendation. Should you have any questions, we recommend that you contact us to determine which is the correct shaft length for your particular boat.
NO! Four-stroke outboards are not filled with oil from the factory. You must add oil to the crankcase prior to use.
Four-stroke outboards use 10W-30 or 10W-40 four-stroke motor oil. We recommend a FC-W® rated NMMA (marine) certified four-stroke engine oil when available (10W-30 or 10W-40).
Yes. If necessary, the engine can be laid on its side but it must be laid on the proper side. Your outboard includes a picture (decal) on the engine itself indicating which direction the engine can be laid. Please see owner’s manual for additional information on transporting and storage of your outboard.
Yes. The lower unit gear oil is pre-filled by the factory, however, you should check to ensure proper level before first use. To replace/add lower unit oil we recommend any SAE 80 or 90 weight oil. For additional information, see your owner’s manual or our step-by-step instructions on how to check or change the oil in your lower unit.
The minimum octane rating that you should use is 87, with no more than 10%e ethanol. However, it is highly recommended to use non-ethanol gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher when possible.
Yes. All tiller operated outboards equipped with electric start (30hp and below) also have the standard manual thru-cowling pull cord. You do not have to remove the cowling or do anything special. No more missed boating trips due to a dead battery. All electric start models also feature a 12V charging system as standard pre-installed equipment so engines can be manually crank started to recharge a dead or weak battery.
Smallest Long Shaft Outboard with Electric Start: 8hp. Smallest Short Shaft Outboard with Electric Start: 9.8hp. All 4-stroke outboards equipped with electric start feature a factory installed 12V charging system and full back-up manual rope start through the cowling (just as found on manual start models) as standard equipment.
The 12V charging system allows the user to charge a 12V battery. With this option installed, the outboard engine will send charging current to the battery when the outboard engine is running. The output is variable based on engine RPM.
Who needs this option?
Anyone who has a 12V battery in their boat (for lighting or other accessories) and would like an alternative or supplemental charging method.
NOTE: The 12V Alternator/Charging System is an option only and is NOT required to operate the outboard. This feature can be added to manual start models from 4hp – 20hp. On 8hp – 20hp electric start models, this feature is standard equipment and no additional purchase is necessary. This feature is also standard on 6hp Sail Pro models.
How much is a 12V Alternator/Charging kit for my outboard?
We offer genuine Tohatsu/Nissan 12V charging systems that include a rectifier which provide your outboard with the ability to charge a 12V battery should you have the need or desire to do so.
Sail Pro and Sail Power models include the 12V charging system pre-installed by the factory.
ELECTRIC START MODELS: 12V CHARGING SYSTEM IS STANDARD
Electric start model engines automatically come standard with the 12V charging system pre-installed from the factory. No assembly is required. You simply connect the 8.2 ft positive/negative electric start battery leads (provided) to your battery.
A “remote control” outboard is one that is equipped with remote steering, throttle, and shift controls. Suzuki is the only manufacturer that authorizes OnlineOutboards.com to ship remote control models.
Yes. All portable outboards are designed for saltwater and freshwater use. These outboards are used by commercial fisherman worldwide and are prized for their long-term durability over years of demanding saltwater use. For maximum durability and corrosion protection, all outboards feature: High Grade Marine Alloy Construction, Stainless Steel Water Pump Housings, Zinc Coated Internal Water Passages, Sacrificial Zinc Anodes, and Exclusive Multi-Layer Protective Coating.
Below is the manufacturer’s recommended flushing technique: Caution: To avoid injury in the event of accidental starting, be sure to remove the prop and the stop switch lanyard cord from your outboard before proceeding. Important: running your outboard without an adequate source of cooling water will result in severe damage to your outboard. 2.5, 3.5, 4, 5, & 6hp: For smaller outboards, the simplest way to flush your outboard is by using a large container of water (bucket, pail, barrel). Be sure the container is large enough to completely cover the water intake ports on the lower unit of the outboard. Also be sure that the container is wide enough so that no part of the motor will touch the sides/bottom of the bucket. Securely mount your outboard on a sawhorse or other sturdy device that will allow safe operation of your outboard. You may also use an optional “flushing plug”, see below. 8hp and up: With 8hp-140hp outboards we recommend you use a motor flusher (“ear muffs”). This type of motor flusher is easy to use, inexpensive, and available at virtually every marine retailer. This equipment attaches to your garden hose and clamps on to your outboard’s lower unit, covering the water intake ports. Turn the garden hose on fully before starting your engine. Make sure the “ear muff” motor flusher is firmly in place and correctly positioned over the water intakes on your lower unit. (Note: the “ear muff” motor flusher will not work on outboards below 8hp) Run your outboard at normal idle speed for 5-10 minutes to allow the engine to warm up and to ensure your outboard is thoroughly flushed with clean water. DO NOT rev up the engine as this is not necessary for flushing and could cause damage to the water pump. Use of a flush attachment is a bit cumbersome to use and requires removal of a water bolt on the engine. Once the water bolt is removed, the flushing attachment can be used. After flushing, the flushing attachment is removed and the water bolt is re-installed. When using the flushing plug method, the engine should NOT be operated while flushing.
A break-in chart is included in your owner’s manual. Correct operation during the break-in period will prolong the life of your new outboard and will ensure optimum performance. Break-in consists of maintaining lower RPM levels and varying the RPM’s for the first 10 hours of use. Break-in should be done under a load (on your boat, not at home in a container of water).
If you need help locating a service center in your area, please email us and include your zip code. Authorized Service centers can also provide service after the warranty period.
Outboards undergo an extensive factory inspection, including a tank test prior to being crated. This ensures the highest level of quality and customer satisfaction upon delivery. Engine oil must be added prior to use. The engine oil is drained by the factory prior to shipping. When your new outboard arrives, you simply add engine oil (amount and type are shown on page 1 of manual). The lower unit gear lube is pre-filled from the factory. No assembly is required. Even the propeller is pre-installed for your convenience. If you purchase an electric start model, your outboard will include battery leads pre-installed from the factory (battery not included). You simply connect the battery leads to your battery. Read the owner’s manual carefully prior to operation. The owner’s manual contains important information regarding the break-in period, safety and proper use of your outboard engine.